APPLES and RED PAPRIKA POTATO CHIPS

The drive from the airport was notable for snow, lots of gray, many evergreens capped with snow, and apartment buildings lining the streets. It was similar to the train ride from Hong Kong into mainland China, when we were going to adopt Jia, with

dingy gray apartment buildings, one after another, rising 10 and 20 stories high (though much higher in China), each with laundry drying on the balcony from an extended pole. There was no laundry today in the snow. The Slovenian lawyer sharing the cab with us, who was exceedingly pleasant and helpful, commented in English "you will notice the remnants of socialism here on the streets from the airport". But the landscape was lovely.

So there indeed were "remnants of socialism", but they were clearly mixed with capitalism --as evidenced by the airline, airport advertisements, and high-end shops along the road.

After the Tito-Stalin split of 1948, Yugoslavia became much less oppressive than other communist countries in the region. Travel was less restricted, and thus there was interaction with the west. Tito died in 1980, and Slovenia delared its independence from the former Yugoslavia in 1991. It has since developed as the richest and most westernized of the Yugoslavian countries. Apparently much of its business is in local hands -- which is apparent in the many shopping sections of tourist brochures,--- values its natural resources, and has quite a bit of national pride. It joined the EU in 2004, and the UN in 1992. Its involvement in the Balkan war was comparatively little, with minimal destruction or loss of life.

The national pride is readily apparent from airport marques, and street billboards, tauting their local beauty and many amenties.

The cab stopped at one of the high rises and there we were. It was 25 degrees with 6 inches of snow on the ground.

Building in the "socialist" style, as well as being the view from one of our three apt windows

"Second elevator on the left, second floor", our apt. owner, who was faithfully waiting for us on the curb, yelled as Hollin went into the lobby.

"The second, the second on the left". But Hollin was already on the 1st elevator, closing the metal door and heading up. Quickly realizing that he was already heading towards the 3rd floor, he reached for the 2 button. It was no where to be found. The door opened, and a Slovene woman spoke at length to him. He said "pardone moi" in a French accent, and then came a long explanation in French. Hollin finally admitted to speaking only English, and she quickly switched to English, in order to tell him that the elevators went to either EVEN or ODD floors, but not both. He had happened upon the odd numbered floor elevator and was mortified. Funny how being in a foreign country makes you feel so dumb sometimes.



So, 2nd elevator now, 2nd floor, 300 square feet, 5 people, 2 bedrooms --one of which doubles as the "living" room, a kitchen with a table, chocolates, and a considerately placed jar of home-canned peaches, and one bathroom. The toilet is alone in getting a room to itself,

though this water closet is aptly named in that it is so small that it is not possible to get in and still be able to close the door. Hollin has managed to squeeze his way in, motivated by his teenage self-consciousness, or perhaps by the fact that perhaps his bathroom activities demand

more privacy than ours.

Our spiceless kitchen, so to speak

Overwhelmed might be the best word to describe today, and jetlagged. So tired that nothing seems doable. Lots to keep busy with though --- Slovene school for jia, language school, things to do to avoid killing each other in this small space, meals for 5 for 6 months, on the 3 by 4 table in a kitchen with 4 sets of china, two knives, minimal cutlery, few tools, and no paper towels, bus schedules, bus passes, grocery stores with lactose-free milk, where to take the trash, how to do laundry for 5 with no dryer in the snow and few clothes on hand, how to get coffee that is drinkable, faulty internet connections, and many whines from the children about our dog left behind at home.

Rest, and everything will seem manageable in the morning.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but not worried.

You've got to like a country that has apples and red paprika potato chips in its vending machines.