WINTER COMES TO LIFE and LIFE COMES TO WINTER

The transition from fall to winter came quickly here in Slovenia. And it is now officially the Christmas season. There is a 40 foot evergreen on Preseren Square, (conspicuously placed in one of those manholes with the artistically designed covers), and over 50 green wooden cubicles decorated with garlands, placed around downtown to sell chocolate, candy canes, spirits, hats and mittens, and local desserts.

Preseren Square

manhole/christmas tree stand

Winter window display

A City park

Ljubljanski Grad in the snow

We three Kings

are really well-dressed

Booths selling candy canes

River Ljubljanica, lit for Christmas

And in the usual Slovenian style, everyone is (even MORE) friendly now that they are filled with that holiday cheer.

December Friday afternoons in particular are notable for merrymaking in the squares, public spaces, and kava cafes. Wine and singing, and socializing, and music, and colors and candies, and lights, and sausages and sauerkraut, heated outdoor cafes, lots of dressy black boots and happy couples. Everything is so festive. But can Slovenes really be as jolly as they seem?

To find out, I consulted the Slovene-authored book found around town, “Questions about Slovenia. Everything you wanted to know about Slovenia, but had nowhere to ask.”

Let’s see.

What do Slovenes like to eat? Where do I get information about my family tree? (wishful thinking), Where are festivals held? What religions are there in Slovenia? (“90% of Slovenes are Roman Catholic. A much smaller number attend church. . . . Franc Rode, Archbishop of Ljubljana, now a Cardinal, recently referred to his homeland as a “sole atheist island” in the area.)

Where can I get spirits? (holy or otherwise) Why is Lake Bled so popular among tourists? What is the Slovene national anthem like? (inspiring) What is a kurent? Where do I get birth certificates or marriage results? (can anyone do that?)

Are Slovenes gullible?

Do Slovenes like to sing?

OK, Getting closer.

Here, Page 30.

What?

Are Slovenes Belligerent?

Belligerent? Slovenes belligerent? I’ve never once seen a kava café brawl. And with all that singing? And poetry? Tell me it isn’t so.

“History does not record any armed attacks made by Slovenes. They were always victims of other oppressors and though the enemy has always managed to oppress them, it failed to defeat them! One glance at the Slovene history reveals the downfall of the Frankish Empire, Avars are long gone, the Holy Roman Empire crumbled, and the Turks driven away, Napoleaon defeated, Austria Hungary and Yugoslavia disintegrated. Nonetheless Slovenes persevere despite the fact that they do not have an army, or a strong state.

In spite of its turbulent history this nation has managed to continue steadfastly in this strategically important part of Europe where routes from east to west and north to south intersect. Slovenes chose culture and art and language and folk songs over arms to be their shield and grew into a nation of poets. If the history of other nations was as peaceful as this one, the world would be a much better place to live in.”

Whew.

Another magical attraction of December in Ljubljana is the light show. Those lights just bring out the child in us all don’t they? And they take that literally in this city.

There are brightly lit snowmen in striped scarves, blinking bows and wreaths, Rudolf’s flashing red nose, and twinkling white snowflakes. Christmas is afterall about light, and magic, beginnings, and love, and human connection. So it only makes sense that a 20 foot lighted sperm would be included in the show.

“Look mom, Christmas ribbon imitating DNA.”

Yes, that is funny.

Click.

And there is a big sun. . . . and all the planets.

Click

Planets? But there are only 6.

But there’s a comet.

Click.

That is a big comet. Why is its tail so saggy?

It looks like one of those flagellated spermy things to me.

That is gross. It’s Christmas.

Well, it does, and there’s the egg.

That is not an egg. This is some extraterrestrial space show, and you all are bizarre

Extraterrestrial planet show? At Christmas?

That egg is surrounded by sperm. It is not the sun.

Where?

Click, click.

And what are those sticks?

XX XY. Chromosomes.

There’s meiosis too.

And an embryo! With a beating red heart.

It looks so pretty against that pink church.

And over there, that’s an infinity symbol.

Giant egg centerpiece, with circling sperm

Giant sperm centerpiece
with Ljubljana castle in background

sperm, egg, DNA, and meiosis

Snow covered DNA, and sperm

egg, sperm and embryo

the walkway of life

Big bang, hydrogen molecule, infinity sign, meiosis, chromosomes, sperm, egg, embryo

17th century Franciscan Catholic Church

Sperm and egg

Chromosomes, XX, XY
that male-female thing

Meiosis

Yes, only in this incredibly unique, open, and sophisticated country, would one find a giant, life-affirming sperm, egg and embryo at the heart of their annual light show. Oh, and throw in a hydrogen atom, the big bang, and an infinity symbol, all beautifully displayed in front of the pink, 17th century Franciscan church.

And whether it’s in spite of, because of, or irrelevant of the church that frames it, wouldn’t you just know it, that red heart in the middle of the embryo is blinking.

(And in actuality, the theme is irrelevant of the Catholic Church. The light show is several years old now, and is the work of Slovene artist Marko Modic, who has exhibited throughout the world.)

Quick consult the book. Is it in there?

Ljubljana light show? ……Christmas lights?……… December fesitivities?

No, I don’t see it.

OK, OK then, how about this one.

What is the best time of year to visit Slovenia?

Answer: Any month of the year.

winter cafe kava

would you like to join me?

That Most Delicate Place*

     There is a place in all of us that has remained innocent, uncorrupted

and untouched by the world.  We have to locate that most delicate place.

It is where we feel love - where tenderness and compassion arise, free from self-interest.

     This place is the hole we have to fall into - and disappear in forever.

                                                                                       from "enlightenment is (not) a secret"  by Andrew Cohen

Come on America, it’s Christmas.  Let your love light shine. 

With something original and moving.

 You know, maybe an infinity sign atop the Statue of Liberty? 

Or a giant lighted sperm over the Houses of Congress?

XX Chromosomes adorning that phallic Washington Monument?

DNA garlands around Lincoln's armchair?

And what about Ground Zero? This might be it. The answer to all that needless bickering.

A big Slovenian-style light show.

Because after all, who among us can argue with…………… life?